# Building a finger-jointed box with a living-hinge lid

> a finger-jointed box with an integrated living-hinge lid

A hinge box is a finger-jointed box plus a lid that folds back on itself. Instead of metal hinges, the lid is joined to the box back by a strip of living hinge: a grid of fine slits that lets rigid plywood bend. This generator cuts the finger joints, the lid, and the hinge slits for you, and lays the lid and hinge next to the box so it all cuts from one sheet. The Assembled 3D tab shows the lid closed on top so you can judge proportions before cutting.

## What you need

- **Laser cutting:** 3 to 6 mm plywood or MDF. Thin plywood bends more easily across a living hinge. Measure the actual sheet thickness with calipers.
- **3D printing:** any rigid filament. The lid and hinge export as flat solids without slits.
- **Glue:** PVA wood glue for plywood, plus a couple of clamps or elastic bands

## Step 1 - Box size



**Width**, **Depth** and **Height** are outside dimensions, so subtract two material thicknesses to get the usable interior. **Thickness** must match your sheet, because every finger joint is derived from it.

## Step 2 - Tune the hinge



- **Hinge width** sets how wide the flexible strip is. A wider strip folds more gently but uses more sheet.
- **Slit spacing** sets how close the living-hinge cuts sit. Tighter spacing bends more easily but is more fragile.
- The two score lines along the strip mark where the panel folds, one at the box back and one at the lid edge.

## Step 3 - Check the assembly



Switch to the **Assembled 3D** tab and orbit the box to see the lid sitting closed on top. The **Export Preview** tab shows the flat sheet with the box nest on the left and the lid plus hinge strip on the right.

## Laser cutting

### Before you cut



1. Measure your sheet with calipers and set **Thickness** to what you measured, not what the label says.
2. Cut the living-hinge slits and finger joints before the outlines where your software lets you choose, so panels do not shift once they are free.
3. Run a hinge test first: cut a short strip of slits on scrap and flex it to confirm the plywood bends without snapping before committing the whole sheet.

### Glue up



1. Dry fit the box walls and floor first. Finger joints in charred ply need a light sanding on the tabs, not force.
2. Glue the four walls into a ring, drop the floor in, and check for square before the glue grabs.
3. Fold the living hinge gently the first few times to break it in, then glue the far edge of the hinge strip to the box back.

## 3D Printing

### Slice and print



1. The 3D download is a zip with one part per panel, plus the lid and hinge strip as flat solids without slits.
2. Every part is already extruded to the **Thickness** value. Do not scale the parts in the slicer: it changes the joint sizes too.
3. Lay each panel flat on the bed with 3 or more perimeters so the finger joints come out strong.
4. A printed living hinge is not practical, so join the lid to the box with a printed or bought pin hinge instead.

## Make it yours

- Engrave a monogram or logo on the lid before cutting.
- Add a small magnet pocket or catch so the lid stays shut.
- Widen the hinge strip for a slow, soft-close fold on a heavier lid.

---

Open the Hinge Box Generator: https://www.mylasertools.com//hinge-box-generator
Read online: https://www.mylasertools.com//learn/guides/hinge-box-generator