# Framing and finishing a printed map

> mats, frames, mounting, and captions that make a print look bought, not made

A great map design can still look amateur on the wall if it is trapped behind cheap glass with no margin. The fix is cheap and fast: a mat board, the right frame for the palette, and a caption. This guide covers the presentation choices that make a printed map - from any flat preset like the [City Map](/map-designer?preset=city-map) or [Vintage Parchment Map](/map-designer?preset=vintage-parchment-map) - read as a finished piece.

It applies to anything you printed on paper, UV-printed on a panel, or sublimated onto hardboard.

## What you need

- Your printed map (paper, panel, or hardboard)
- A frame with a mat board, a float frame, or [anodized standoff spacers](https://yxecreations.com/products/4-pack-anodized-standoff-spacers) for a panel
- Foamboard or mounting tape, a metal ruler, a craft knife if you cut your own mat
- Optional satin varnish for panels

## Step 1 - Size the export for the frame



Decide the frame first, then export to suit it. The 4096 px PNG clears 300 DPI up to about 13 inches and a comfortable 200+ DPI at A3.

- Square presets frame cleanly in a square frame with a square mat - the easiest, best-looking option.
- For a standard portrait/landscape frame, leave extra map margin on the long sides and crop in the print dialog rather than stretching the image.
- Match the aspect ratio at export time; never resize a print non-proportionally, which smears the road network.

## Step 2 - Choose a mat and frame for the palette



- **A mat board is the single biggest upgrade.** A 5-8 cm mat around the art instantly reads as framed art rather than a poster.
- **Warm palettes** (vintage parchment, midnight gold) sing in black or walnut frames with a cream mat.
- **Cool palettes** (blueprint, neon night) want white or natural maple with a white mat.
- Keep the mat neutral; let the map carry the color.

## Step 3 - Add a caption



A small, well-kerned caption - the city name and coordinates - is what makes a map look professionally produced. Add it as a text layer in the designer before export so it prints as part of the art, or hand-letter it on the mat below the print. Keep it understated and centered in the bottom third.

## Framing & Mounting

### Mounting options



1. **Glass frame + mat (paper prints):** the classic, protective, and forgiving choice; use a mat to hold the print off the glass.
2. **Float frame (paper or panel):** mount the print to foamboard and set it in a float frame for a modern, borderless edge.
3. **Standoffs (UV or sublimation panels):** float a rigid panel off the wall on [anodized standoff spacers](https://yxecreations.com/products/4-pack-anodized-standoff-spacers) at the corners (enable **Corner holes** at export) for a gallery look with shadow depth.
4. **Cleat or sawtooth (heavy panels):** a French cleat keeps a large wood or Dibond panel flat to the wall.

### Finishing touches



- Seal UV and sublimation panels with a satin varnish for a consistent sheen and protection.
- Dust the print and inside of the glass before sealing the frame - trapped lint shows on dark presets.
- Hang at eye level; group multiple cities with matching frames and even spacing for a gallery wall.
- Add felt bumpers to the bottom corners so the frame hangs flat and does not mark the wall.

## Make it yours

- Three cities in one palette and matching frames make an instant gallery wall.
- 'Then and now' diptych: the same city in the parchment and blueprint presets, framed as a pair.
- Float a square panel inside a larger square frame with a deep mat for a museum feel.
- Letterpress or foil a caption onto the mat for a luxury finish.
- Pair a printed map with a small laser-cut nameplate mounted below the frame.

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Open a printable map preset: https://www.mylasertools.com/map-designer?preset=city-map
Read online: https://www.mylasertools.com/learn/guides/framing-finishing-printed-maps